February 2024
Most visitors to Phnom Penh see the same circuit — Royal Palace, National Museum, Riverside, Russian Market. These are all worth seeing. But the city reveals something more layered, more genuine, and more memorable to those willing to explore beyond the familiar stops. Here are the places that long-term residents treasure most.
O'Russei Market is Phnom Penh's working wholesale market — not a tourist destination, but an extraordinary sensory experience. Early morning is the best time to visit: vendors selling fresh produce, spices, flowers, and dry goods in a covered Art Deco structure that has served the city for decades. The surrounding streets are full of small restaurants serving some of the best kuy teav (noodle soup) in the city for under USD 2.
Most tourists visit Wat Phnom — the hilltop temple that gives the city its name — during daylight hours when it is busy and hot. Arriving at dawn, before 7am, transforms the experience entirely. Monks chant in the temple, locals make offerings at the base of the hill, and the gardens are quiet and cool. It is one of the most peaceful moments the city offers.
Street 240, running through BKK1, has quietly become one of Southeast Asia's more interesting art and design streets. Independent galleries, architecture studios, concept stores, and long-running expat institutions sit side by side. The street is walkable, shaded, and full of the kind of creative energy that tends to precede significant neighbourhood appreciation — worth knowing about as both a cultural destination and a real estate signal.
The northern part of the city around the former Boeng Kak Lake has undergone remarkable change over the past decade and continues to evolve. The area offers some of Phnom Penh's most interesting street art, independent cafés, and a distinctly local character that contrasts with the polished expat districts further south. It also represents one of the city's more interesting medium-term investment areas, as infrastructure improvements and the broader northward expansion of the city continue.
Phnom Penh is a city best understood through its streets rather than its guidebooks. If you are considering making it home — even temporarily — our guide to living here is a good place to start.
